A December adventure to Cape Town via Kosi Bay - because we can!

When your kids are grown up and have left home, they still do weird things behind your back. Case in point: a trip to Kosi Bay and back, had now morphed into a 5000 km trip to Kosi Bay, Durban, Cape Town and back.
We suddenly had to pack panniers as well. We would be gone for 17 days, and more than a toothbrush would be needed, methinks!

Saturday 13th December, packed and ready to leave.



After making sure that our communication system was working, we left at 08h15 for Pongola, our first overnight stop. The weather was good, the roads ok, but from Ermelo until about 30 kms from Pongola, the wind was blowing and the roads turned ugly.





It was very hot and humid in Pongola, so we had a swim in their nice green swimming pool. We then walked about 2 kms to town for dinner, then back to the caravan park, turning in early.



Leaving Pongola the next morning, it was still hot and humid, with the cloudy sky clearing towards the East. On the left, Pongolapoort Dam was stunning, many different shades of green, being more visible the higher we climbed.





Jozini town is filthy, but the dam, with it’s imposing wall and stunning scenery, made it all worthwhile.



The less said about the road to Kosi Bay the better! Atrocious condition is the best I can come up with. At least 60% of the road has large patches of sand, or is potholed. Not to mention the moving hazards as well!







At the Border post, we had the necessary photo taken by an obliging policeman, and left in a hurry.



We met up with the owner of the Total garage in Kosi town, who told us that Fritz ‘Ommie Rand van die Land’, had been there the previous day, and did we know him? That knowledge scored us a free Energade! The trip to Richards Bay, our next overnight stop, was hot but uneventful.



Our lodgings in Richards Bay were pleasant. We enjoyed the pool and the food, and retired at about 21h30.



Next morning was cloudy, windy and brooding, ready to unload lots of ‘wetness’ onto us. We took theN2 for ease of use, and, looking forward to seeing our daughter in Umhlanga, we could keep a steady speed, wet or dry. We stopped just before Stanger and put on our rainsuits, as it had started to drizzle. No sooner were we zipped up than the rain had stopped! We rode into Umhlanga on damp roads, but we were dry. It started to clear for the rest of the day, and we even got to walk on the beach, after gorging ourselves on the best Fish Basket ever!
This is a rest day for us, we are being driven to Ushaka, and ‘elsewhere’ for the day.



It was cloudless and very humid, but we spent a wonderful day with our daughter and her friend. We were exhausted by the time they deposited us at the B & B, so we all had a swim and said our goodbyes, after a light supper.





We packed the panniers and crawled into bed early, as the next day would be over 700 kms into the unknown for us.

The day dawned hot and cloudless, on the N2 to Port Edward at 06h00.



Entering the old Transkei, one can almost taste the difference.



No animals wandering on the side of the road, for starters! The road was good, very few potholes, also their national flower is not the ‘Checkers’ bag. The countryside is beautiful and clean. We were rather anxious when we decided on traveling through the Transkei, not knowing what to expect. The scenery is truly magnificent, rolling green hills and valleys all the way.



Not once did we feel in any danger, until we had to go through the small towns along the way. It takes about 10 minutes to negotiate your way through about a kilometer through the town centre. We rode on to Port St.Johns for lunch.





The last 30kms into Port St.Johns has 133 corners! After lunch, we headed out to East London via Mthatha, a very busy town. The road through the Kei Cuttings after Butterworth is biking nirvana.
Even with a heavily laden GS, the sweeps could be ridden at the National speed limit, and above, with ease.
After that delight, you are brought down to earth with a thud. The road, about 30kms before East London, changes dramatically. Bumpy road surface and long shadows take your concentration to new levels of awareness. East London is not our favorite place, confirmed again by having to change accommodation after having booked in advance. We did not get what we had booked, so a change had to be made.



After a good brisk walk along the beachfront, we had dinner at the hotel and went to bed early, utterly exhausted.

Leaving East London on a clear,cool morning, we hardly saw any traffic until we stopped at the Fish River Diner just before Port Alfred.



The manageress was a mone of information and local ‘skinner’, informing us of the Stop/Go at Kenton-on-sea. After a delicious pie and gravy, we headed for Port Alfred. The Kowie river at Port Alfred is always a beautiful sight, the Marina is stunning. We decided not to go into Port Elizabeth, as the wind was now blowing very strongly and the clouds were gathering. I needed to refuel, and thinking there would be a garage on the N2 at P.E., did not fill up at Colchester as planned. Almost a big mistake! All the bars on the fuel gauge had disappeared before we even reached the outskirts of Port Elizabeth, 298 kms showing on the speedo. We cruised in the yellow line at 80 km/h hoping for a petrol station, but nada. I suddenly remembered a garage at Colleen Glen, just off the N2, about 20 kms further along, and cruised into the garage with a sigh of relief. We had ridden 318 kms but only needed 16.3 litres of fuel! Our overnight was at Nature’s Valley, so on we went. Due to recent storm damage, the Bloukrans Pass is still closed, so we were quickly robbed at the Toll Plaza before we could get to Nature’s Valley. It was now overcast and threatening rain, but none came. We went for a walk on the beach, but it was very windy, and the sea looked cold and menacing!
The next day was a rest day, so we went for a 5 km hike along the coast that can only be done at low tide. What a magical experience! We lazed about on the beach and at the house for the rest of the day, just relaxing.

We left early the next morning, our destination for the next 6 days was Paarl, and we had a few passes to ride! The speed limit of 100 km/h on the N2 is very irritating, very few opportunities to get past traffic. We filled up in Plettenberg Bay, and had a shork break at the Kaaiman’s River Bridge Viewpoint.



Absolutely stunning, no wind or clouds, the sea very flat. We also stopped at Victoria Bay to recce the place we would be staying at in Decenber 2009. A few clouds started to gather, and by the time we reached George, it was overcast and chilly. We had a blast up the Outeniqua Pass,



the road surface is good, so the twisties are enjoyable, but not nearly enough! Over the top of the pass, it was sunny and warm, and we had brunch in a very hot Outdshoorn. The R62 to Barrydale was next. The Country Pumpkin is a must to all bikers, the service is great. All bikers get a free Muscadel and Route 62 sticker on arrival, the food is good too. By now, we were getting a bit tired, so changed the route from Swellendam on, going through Robertson and Worcester to Paarl, via the old Du Toitskloof Pass,



and not along the N2 to Gordon’s Bay. We can ride Floorshoogte and the Franschhoek Pass on our next trip. Hint, hint. The view of Table Mountain and Paarl Rock from the top of the old pass, always gives me the feeling of ‘coming home’. An amazing sight!



We spent 6 wonderful relaxing days with our kids in Paarl, a really blessed Christmas was had by all. The only windy, rainy day was when we decided to climb Paarl Rock, the day our daughter and her husband were due to fly back to Gauteng. No second chance! The wind literally blew us off the mountain, so we drove to Franschhoek for brunch, and discovered the Belgian Chocolate Factory Shop. Heaven!



All too soon, we were packing for the trip home. We had posted all our dirty clothes and stuff that we had bought along the way to ourselves, so packing was a little easier for the trip back.

Saturday 27th saw us leave Paarl in absolutely glorious sunshine. We rode Bainskloof,





and then Michells Pass





on the way to Ceres, and then on to Touwsrivier. We were very sad to leave the mountains behind us, the further we rode, the flatter it became. We had brunch in Matjiesfontein, at the Coffee Shop, very pleasant indeed. As our overnight was in Britstown, we had to get on a bit. But the wind had other ideas! The front wheel of the bike was being lifted by the gusting wind, so anything close to 100 km/h was very scary indeed. The wind was very hot and dry, so we consumed bottles of water wherever we stopped. Eventually we arrived at the Transkaroo Country Lodge in Btritstown, slightly battered and tired. The Lodge/Hotel is an old building, clean and tidy, and the food is very good. Definitely recommended if you are ever in the vicinity and need a place to sleep.



Early the next morning, needing fuel, one garage’s pump was not working, but luckily the Shell garage could. A fair queue was forming, but we were lucky, filled up quickly and left before anyone realized what had happened! We had taken this route so that we could visit Orania, but being a Sunday, all the shops were closed.





We were very thirsty, but could not buy anything anywhere. The town is very clean and tidy, but the way of life there is not for me, thanks. On we go, and in Luckhoff, we had about the last of the unleaded petrol. We also consumed large amounts of water and Energade. By now, ‘my friend the wind’ was starting to make itself heard again. We stopped at the awesomely beautiful Vanderkloofdam, then Koffiefontein and Fauresmith, where the train tracks still go through the centre of town, but no longer used.



Big storm clouds were starting to gather around us, we are definitely going to get wet for the first time this trip! Due to the strong wind, and lots of Devine Intervention, the rain clouds moved past us. We only had a spattering of rain, not even enough for the rain suits that we had hastily put on when we realized ‘wet’ was inevitable. We had a welcome lunch at the Bloemfontein Ultra City, then headed out for the Winburg Herberg Hotel via Brandfort. The road after Brandfort is the 2nd worst road of the whole trip!! Only the Jozini to Kosi Bay road was in worse condition. We managed to get to Winburg in one piece, and we were the only people staying in the Hotel. Being Sunday, the only place we could get food, closed at 19h00- the Alpha Steakhouse!



The hamburger and chips, vetkoek and mince, washed down with ice cold Coke, was fantastic. We sat on the Hotel verandah and watched the incoming storm clouds, rain falling on the town square, with the imposing church on one side, and we were at peace with the world. Until the local cowboy decided to take his 1969 Zephyr for a very jittery spin around the square, shattering the silence. What a moron!

After a mosquito interrupted sleep, we made ready for the last 380 kms of the trip. What a lovely day, no wind, and only a few clouds in the sky, we climbed aboard our faithful GS and set off for home. After filling up at Kroonstad, we went on to the Kroonvaal Plaza and had brunch. The road was quiet and rather boring, until we crossed the Vaal river. It seems that the people living in Gauteng are far more stressed out than anywhere else. We had our one and only near miss at the Brakfontein Interchange, luckily it was a miss. We arrived home at about 13h00, hot and tired, but elated, blessed that we could see our truly beautiful country from the back of a motorcycle.



Where to next? is the overwhelming feeling as you wheel your trusty GS into the garage. To experience this adventure with your loved one, is truly a blessing, never to be forgotten. We have such a beautiful country, it is well worth any hassles that you may encounter along the way. Until the next one!



More pics to follow.....

Ai.. lovely.
Not difficult to sense your passion.. Thanks Mike & Dilla!

MichaelW wrote:......Where to next? is the overwhelming feeling as you wheel your trusty BM into the garage. To experience this adventure with your loved one, is truly a blessing, never to be forgotten. ..........Until the next one!

fixed




can not agree with you more Mike...........indeed ÜBER SPECIAL and well done Dilla for pillion such a long trip

I enjoyed reading you trip report - thank you very much for sharing it with us

ps. welcome to the forum

It seems as if the road to Kozi Bay from Josini has detetiorated completely and will soon be road fit only for GS's. In 2005/06 when we did it, the road was in better state of repair and could be done very nicely with a road bike.

Given that the average speedlimit was then 80kms on that stretch and we experienced temps of roughly 32, I would rather not want to do that slow road, in the state of disrepair that is presently obvious, in december.

Regardless - seems like you enjoyed it - well done.

Very nice Mike - Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks for the comments. I have finally been able to post the last pics of the trip
Just by the way, the speed limit to Kosi is still 80km/h, but a realistic 60km/h is more appropriate. The roving speed traps(cows,etc) see to that!!

Well done - on the trip and the posting!

Admin moved this report to TRIP REPORTS: SOUTH

Great report and wonderful photos. Thanks for the update on the Jozini road. I am going to Ponta Malongane in March but in the 4x4. That road has always been bad. I remember in about 1995 traveling on that road in a VR6 Golf and damaging two rims and tyres because of the potholes. The roads agency then fixed it up but it has been deteriorating since then again.

The road is actually in worse condition than the pics show. The pics we took of the really bad stretches came out blurry, bumping too much. One section, the pothole came from both sides.
It would be safer and easier riding/driving, although longer, if you took the N2 to Hluhluwe and turned North through Mbazwana. Just a suggestion, as that road is in good nick.

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the Malongane web site the other day and that is the route that they recommend as well.

Sorry to hear about your bust bike, hope the repair is not too eina!

Great report back and FANTASTIC pics !
Wonderful seeing places we have been to previously.
We stayed at the same place in Pongola with one of Dave's trip. It's actually where we met Roger for the first time ( and he still talks to us !)
I hated the roads in the area and the cattle just wondering across the road.But Dave assured me if their heads were down - you were OK.Seemed to work. Pleased you found the Belgium Chocolate shop in Franschoek.!
Next time I'm coming along ! ( if you agree)
Well done.looks like it was a life-changing trip.

deonp wrote:.....We stayed at the same place in Pongola with one of Dave's trip.........

in one room?

deonp wrote:.....Next time I'm coming along ! ( if you agree).......

sorry I see you have already supplied the answer




the saying "what happens on a trip, stays on a trip" is much clearer to me now

Mr K-Factor, you are stirring again!



Mr P, you are more than welcome.

MichaelW wrote:Mr K-Factor, you are stirring again!
.......

only enough for my posts not to be removed


btw, I'm also no too fond of quad riders