NAMIBIA - BON's Solo Trip

Hello everybody !!!
Some time ago, I decided to do a trip to Namibia and asked some friends to come with. Unfortunately, nobody was available to make it with me. I tried to change the dates to accommodate others' schedule but, at the end….NOBODY!!!
After had asked some tips from friends, I always received the same answer:
It is dangerous to do by yourself!! It is desert and, if something happens…you can wait for 3 days for the first car passing to help!!!!
I decided to go! Took a spare tyre, toll kit, cereal bars, water, 5 liter extra petrol….
During the first part of the trip, under rain until half way to Upington, I only though about my lone journey! I WAS WORRIED!!!!

Day 1
The first night was in Upington at LIBBY’S Guest House (ZAR 450.00)


Day 2
The day after, at 7h, photo in the city and move on…


At the border It took me 35 minutes to do the Red Tape…


On the way to Ai-Ais. Good Gravel road, but almost nobody on…


My p-lane was to stay in Ai-Ais, but the good thing there was the Hot swimming Pool and it was 34º C !!!! I decided to continue to Fish River Canyon…


What a Fantastic View !!!!
The only problem was no fence and hundred meters down very closed!




The photo with the bike was there: (at the other side)


After 2hs in Fish River Canyon, I continue North and found this beautiful restaurant / hotel at the hole of nowhere!










After a lasagna and the rain (yes, it rains there!!!) I made my counts and headed Bethanie…


Surprise!!!! Road Closed? Well…I have a GS!!!! So…I continued…rsrsrs

The reason was a riverbed with some sand…I had no problem to pass trough

Lots of gravel since I’ve arrived in Namibia…Now a little of Tar!


In Bethanie I stay at BETHANIE GUEST HOUSE. A good surprise inside.



Well…The first day in Namibia wasn’t so bad as I thought!!!! I got some more confidence for the upcoming!!!1

More tomorrow!!!!!!

Thanks Bruno for your report
Looks like a great trip

Thanks for sharing your experience Bruno
Looking forward to the rest of the trip report.
Any do's and don'ts you experienced and want to share for future rides?

Keep it coming....

Thanks Bruno - I was waiting a loooong time for this one Can't wait to see the rest!

Another dream comes true eh?! Well done!
Waiting for the rest....

Great trip, great photos.
Thanks

Thanks for the trip report Bruno. This brings back very fond memories! Wish we could have done it with you.

Lekker Lekker Bruno! Now prioritize and get on with the next part!

or is Mr Bon reading here?

Day 3
The day that I was afraid of arrived!!!
I had planning to keep the C-14 (good gravel in the Map) from Bethanie to Helmeringhausen and then take a deviation to the left in a smaller road in order to shortcut the way to Sossusvlei. In the map it appears as a 3º class road and was marked as a very beautiful scenic road!!! What a doubt !!! If it were too much sand??? I was alone!!! Bad sleeping night!
I decided to do the first 90 Km and in the next city ask for the road conditions!
The 90 Km were a big highway!!! (but I crossed just with 1 car!)



After talking with some guy at the Garage I decided to keep the plan! Let’s see the sand!
Really it was a scenic road!
With 5 km I saw this gate and thought: The road is closed! But not, It was just a gameproof gate to keep the jumping game inside the NAMIB RAND NATURE RESERVE!



Good gravel roads, a little bit dusty!


I was relaxed traveling when I saw this signal!!!



But it wasn’t too bad!!! I had to put the tyre pressure down for the first time!


At the middle of nowhere I refuel the tank


A pause to drink water. (There are flies in all of places!!)


Some Springboks…

The dust on the road made the handle bar shake and I almost lose the control, just having open up !!!! It happened 3 times! Then, I decided to try other things, probably I was loosing the grip in the front wheel and did not need traction (I was at 130Km/h). So I closed up just a little to transfer the weight forward and the bike became stable again!! Tried again and, keeping the throttle, put my weight forward and the same happened, the bike became stable again!!! Well, I’m not sure, but some times “open Up” is not the solution.
The best is to stay in your comfort zone (mainly when you are alone!!!!!)


No fence for the wildlife!!!





Next part: SOSSUSVLEI (Sesriem)
Tomorrow!!!!!!

Very very nice! Thanks for sharing Mr Bon!!!

I was waiting for this report!!!

Thanks Mr Bonotto, keep it coming!

Thanks Bruno, looking forward to next episode.

Beautiful! Definitely on my to-do list!

Day 4
Passing beautiful roads and game reserves, I saw, for the first time, what was waiting for me…
The RED DUNES!



Arriving in Sesriem, I went into the Namib Naukluft Park. I stopped at the Camping site / Tourist Centre’s reception for getting some information. I paid the conservatory tax and was informed that would be 60 Km Tar + 5 Km Sand until SOSSUSVLEI. The Tar road was a fantastic scenic route!!!! I put my camera to record the ride with takes of a terrific landscape!!!
It was till the cam jumped from the support and almost falls away! Fortunately it stayed over the panel and I could pick it up !!!!


The 5 Km sand (no)road!

Ok, Ok, I have to confess … It was forbidden to do this sand part using motorbikes. Just 4 x 4! I had to pay 120 rands for a shuttle !

The animal symbol of Namibia in his habitat:


Sossusvlei Postal Card!!!


34º C !!! and I had forgotten my cap!


The Mom Dune!


It was an amazing place!!!!!


…and It was a marvelous Bike!


It was worth it! Then I had to think about WHERE to sleep! I’ve just had few hours to find a place, and the roads invited me to drive more and more!!!


I arrived in Solitaire, a small city(?) formed for 1 garage + 1 market + 1 hotel = city!
Filling up the tank I asked for a place at the hotel. It was 450 Rand and it was fully booked! The attendant told me if I drive more 600 mts on the road I would find the entrance of the Solitaire Guest Farm and, 6 km later, would find a place. I had 30 min before getting dark!
At the entrance I realize some thick sand (not deep) on the road. Taking care and attention I drove the 6 Km.



I’ve arrived there just in time to see the sunset!!!



What a great surprise!!! Wonderful place! I really recommend this place. A good staff and fair priced. 450 Rand for accommodation + Dinner (game food) + Breakfast!





We received visit for the breakfast!



I very nice night with some foreign people!

Tomorrow the last part with Swakopmond!

Can't wait for the rest! That 5km sand (no) road looks a bit rough!

I bet you wished you could take the GS up those dunes!!! Excellent pictures - you should have been a photographer - stop shooting other airplanes and start shooting pictures

Day 5
After a good breakfast, I headed the Atlantic Ocean in Walvis Bay. On the way down, I crossed Kuiseb Canyon and could see the dry river bads!



The road was in good conditions, but the turns brought some surprises….so, slowed down!!!


Some Tarmac (5 km) in the middle of nowhere


Nice see the trees aligned in the bush…


The famous Dune 7 (I don’t know if it is the highest!!)


In order to take this photo, I asked to a local guy to shot my camera. When I tried to say how to use, he interrupted me and said “I KNOW, I KNOW!”
For my surprise, he tried to see de image from the other side of the cam and headed for all around….(?). I called him again and taught how to use. It was needed 4 to get 1!



The Machine in his environment !!!!!!


Walvis bay is a city with a big port…only this!
The beginning of the road to Swakopmund is nice because the trees in the both sides of the avenue.
Unfortunately, the whether was cloud and misty. Dunes on the right side and ocean on the left!
Swakopmund is a Germany touristy city, out of season and in the winter time! But, is a beautiful city, it must be said!





Day 6
2 choices: Tar with my deteriorated tyre or gravel in a non movement gravel road?
Who figure out my decision?? Hehehe
After more than 1.000 km on gravel, alone, it would be JUST more 330 Km!!!
I tried to get a permit to go to Moon Landscape, but it was told that I couldn’t go by bike! Just cars! I though and decided to go without the permit…if someone asked me I would say that “I’m Brazilian, I didn’t know, Ronaldinho, World Cup…” bla…bla…bla…But I didn’t see the entrance!! (Shame on me!)
The first 100Km was Ok, a little bit dusty and with some sand on the depressions, but 120 km/h you just pass…without felling!
The temperature went from 15º to 35º in half hour!
Halfway to Windhoek, in a mountain area I sow this signal:



In fact it had some 400 mts uphills and downhill’s, nothing complicated, just look liked a roller coaster!!
Some km later I realized why!!!



It were 3 uphills like that. The GS jumped up in a rocky road! It was for her, like a walk on a beach!
320 Km and I sow just 2 cars!

In Windhoek the nice capital of Namibia, I changed my back tyre at the BMW Dealer and took my time at the legend JOE’S BEER HOUSE !!!
http://www.joesbeerhouse.com/



Leaving Windhoek, I planned to sleep on Kang (Botswana). I took the famous TRANS - KALAHARI RIGHWAY.



Closed to the Border, I decided not refueling the tank, once I had driven for just 100 km. My Map said I would have a garage in Tshootsha (90 km after the border). The GPS didn’t said the same. Old school:…the map is better! (It was my first and last mistake in the trip). I’ve have filled up the tank every time I sow a garage, even if it was to put 3 liters!
In the entrance of Botswana they alert us:


What they don’t alert is the quantity of donkeys , I‘ve never seen too many in my life!
…and I have lived in the Northeast of Brazil for 10years!

In Tshootsha we had a garage!!!!!
But it was closed!!!!
Well, using my 5 liters spare I wouldn’t have achieved Kang. So, I turned left to Ghanzi, 45 km out of the route, to fill up the tank. 90 km more, but with petrol enough to arrive to the destination.
Other surprise was the rates for using Rand! 1.00 Pula = 1.25 ZAR (It should have been 1.10).
I was in Kang for the sunset at 18:00h. Stayed at Kang Ultra Stop Lodge, where we had a mini-market, restaurant, bar and accommodation.

Day 7
The last day was just straight and boring tar roads and Border pass to ZA. I use the 5 liters that I had in the can just to become light !!! At the border I had some problems with the Visa, but you know: T. I. A.
I arrived home at 15:00h tired but happy to have done this trip. It was a challenge but the pride is always better!

Summarizing:

Total Km: 4.131 km
Gravel: 1.347 km
Tar: 2.784 km
Max Speed on Gravel: 167 km/h
Max Speed on Tar: 164 km/h
Average speed: 97 km/h
Costs: ZAR$ 6.700,00

That’s It !!!!

Wow, great report Bon! You just made me itch even more to go on another long trip like this!!

Well done!

Hahahaha!!! You went faster on the gravel than the tar

Well done Bruno!! Thank you very much for sharing your lovely trip!

Thanks for sharing you trip Bruno! Nice photo's!

Looks like a great trip! Dave, when are we organising Namibia by gravel?

Thanks for the feed back Bruno. This is just what we needed to seriously start planning, and "just do it". Shooting great pics for a pilot!!
Hitting your target becomes natural I believe, depending on the environment.
Whats next on your list?