A JOURNEY TO THE WILD WEST AND BACK (25 April to 3 May 09)

I think this qualifies as a south(ish) trip…

Total distance: Approximately 2 035km (roundtrip)


This trip wasn’t really planned beforehand, as we initially decided to stay at home (Pretoria) and do various day trips in and around Pretoria. Inspired mainly by the economic crisis our country is experiencing, I thought it could potentially be a good attempt at a cheap holiday. We, well I, called it our Pretoria Holiday.

Corlia’s parents were going to Amanzimtoti around the same time and we were invited along. I wasn’t totally convinced, but as the holiday grew closer (and with a lot of persuasion from Corlia’s side) it was decided that we would do a trip to Amanzimtoti and back. Seeing that we were on leave from Thursday the 24th of April and Corlia’s parents only arriving in Amanzimtoti on Wednesday the 29th, we decided to take a scenic five day trip down starting on Saturday.

Accommodation wasn’t booked in advance as we didn’t want to be under pressure at any time to be at a specific destination. I feel there needs to be a bit of an adventuress flavour to any bike trip (or any road trip for that matter). The idea was to stay over in the Drakensberg area for at least two nights seeing that Corlia has not yet experienced the back roads of this part of our beautiful country.

I just love the excitement building up as these trips creep closer. Making sure the first aid kit is stocked, all the necessities and luxuries (i.e. wet-wipes, lip balm, camera, etc.) are packed in the tank bag and keeping an eye on the weather predictions trying to decide which clothing to take along.

And so the journey begins…

DAY 1: PRETORIA TO REITZ
Distance: Approximately 330km (with about 40km being gravel road)

Corlia’s parents stay in Reitz so we decided that would be our first overnighter. We didn’t leave too early as we didn’t have too far to travel. The plan was to travel via Bapsfontein to Heidelberg for breakfast, which would have been our first stop for the day, hadn’t we decided to head to Springs first for a quick coffee at Corlia’s sister’s. On our way out of Pretoria I was in my element. I absolutely love these road trips. The excitement of not really knowing where you were going to sleep, what you were going to see and so forth. I absolutely love road trips!


Packed and ready to go!

After our quick stop at Springs we headed for Heidelberg for Breakfast. I like to take pictures at town entrances, you know at the name board as you enter a town. I want to cover one of my bar walls (private or beach bar – we’ll see how things pan out) one day with these pictures. I missed quite a few nice ones on this trip. Anyway, at least we got Nigel. We’ll just have to go back for the ones we’ve missed.


ELKOM IN NIGEL!

We stopped for breakfast in Heidelberg and then headed towards Deneysville and Oranjeville, taking the more scenic route to Reitz. We had a beer or two at a pub in Deneysville before our last stretch to Reitz.


Crossing the Vaal River at the Vaal Dam.


Pit stop in Deneysville. Note the Cheetahs flag above the entrance. My kind of place!

A few kilometres after Oranjeville we turned right onto a gravel road (not planned) leading to Frankfort. I was planning to sneak in a piece of gravel road every here and there to, at least, do the GS some justice. This was however going to be a mainly tar road trip. The bike was heavily loaded with luggage plus a pillion and, given my experience levels, I did not want to risk our holiday with an unnecessary spill somewhere on a remote gravel road I did not know (and seeing that we were on our way to Corlia’s parents – her dad is still warming up to the whole biking thing). Anyway, the gravel road to Frankfort was about 40km, in fairly good shape but not what some refer to as a “dirt highway”. It was very rocky. Not loose rocks, but rocks the size of cricket balls sticking out halfway. So it was very bumpy. In the distance a saw a local bakkie with a couple of farm workers on the back turn onto the road we were on and headed in the same direction as we did. I was determined to pass it to get out of the dust. What I didn’t realise at the time was that the bakkie was still gaining speed, seeing that it had just turned onto the road we were on. I passed him at about 120km/h standing up with Corlia grabbing me by the hips. I could tell it was a bit fast for her comfort and, in hind side, probably should have been a bit fast for me too. But what a rush to travel at that speed on a gravel road! From Frankfort we travelled to Tweeling and then onto Reitz to watch the Cheetahs win the Crusaders. Yeah! Not that it helps at this stage of the Super 14. Anyway this trip report is not about rugby. That concludes day 1.

DAY 2: REITZ TO BERGVILLE
Distance: Approximately 235km (with no gravel roads I’m afraid)



Ready to depart from Corlia’s parent’s house.

We headed to Bethlehem via the R26 for breakfast, via the R711 through Noupoortsnek to Clarens and then onto the R72 to the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. This area is truly beautiful and photos cannot do the scenery justice. You just have to be there to appreciate it.

Our first stop was at the Lesotho Highlands Water Scheme, the Ash River Outfall to be exact. Incredible to think a 45km long 4,5m in diameter tunnel, if memory serves, was constructed through mountains by man. The Ash River outfall is at the very end of it all.


Lesotho Highlands Water Scheme – Ash River Outfall

We stopped at a picnic spot alongside the road to take in the scenery. I don’t know what it is with mountains but just staring at them unlocks a great deal of emotions. Amazement, humbleness, sense of freedom, a whole mix of emotions rolled into one. Reminds me of staring into a bushveld fire. All I know is that it is great to be there between the mountains and just take it in. Corlia had her rain trousers on to keep out the cold. I can only imagine people’s faces every time she pulls down her rain trousers to get out a sigarette! See picture below.


Is it “when nature calls?” or “when nicotine calls?”


Somewhere within the Golden Gate…

Just before we exited the Golden Gate Highlands National Park, we stopped at the Basotho Cultural Village for a view into a typical Basotho village and a normal day’s goings on. This was very interesting and well worth it. We had a beer (not that pleasant) with the Chief, I had my fortune read by a traditional healer (although he did not tell me anything; we had the option of a private consultation afterwards) and Corlia was dressed up in traditional Basotho woman clothing.


Having a sip of the Chief’s finest beer, although I believe they could have put in a little more effort!


The traditional healer


My fortune!


Corlia dressed up as a married Basotho woman. Check out that smile!

We then left Golden Gate and headed towards Bergville, passed the Sterkfontein Dam, via Oliviershoek Pass (the R74). We planned to turn right just after the Oliviershoek Pass onto a road leading south and around the Woodstock Dam to Bergville, but I totally forgot and only realised it just before Bergville. I decided to stop at Bingelela Lodge just a few kilometres before Bergville for a drink. I have been there before and recalled it as a really nice place. We were reminded of our Mozambique holiday last December for some reason, so we decided to stay over for the night. We had a very early dinner as the kitchen is only open until 5pm on Sundays, freshened up and headed back for a few nightcaps. Overall a very nice place. That concludes day 2.


Sterkfontein Dam


Bingelela Lodge

Lekker !!!!!

Can't wait for the rest !!!!

DAY 3: BERGVILLE TO HIMEVILLE
Distance: Approximately 295km (with about 60km being gravel road)


We left Bingelela towards Winterton, through Bergville. Turned right onto the R600 at Winterton towards Champagne Castle, but then left again towards Estcourt via Loskop. Just before Estcourt we turned right onto a gravel road which met up with a tar road that we took to World’s View in the Giant’s Castle Game Reserve. What a beautiful place! If you’re fond of hiking and looking for a place to clear your head; this is the place. From here we took back roads towards Rosetta and Nottingham Road, where we stopped for a late lunch at Nottingham Road Hotel (the oldest hotel in Kwazulu Natal). We waited just about an hour for our food so, needles to say, we were not too impressed with Nottingham Road Hotel.


Ready to leave Bingelela after breakfast.


The gravel road just before Estcourt.


The view from the restaurant at World’s View.


Waiting for our food at Notties; not(ties) impressed!

We then headed for Himeville via Lower Loteni. I guessed it would take us about two hours and, seeing that we left just after, we didn’t have much time to stop along the way. The gravel road lasted about 60km and just over an hour. This was, to date, the most beautiful road I travelled on by myself (well with Corlia…you know what I mean). So unknown not really too sure where we were to turn left or right and with the sun setting we did not have time to get lost. Experiencing the excitement of adventure at its best.


Somewhere along the gravel road towards Himeville.


The sunlight growing dimmer by the minute…

We got to the tar road just after dusk and by the time we got to Himeville it was already dark. This, for me was truly a great ride. We booked in at Himeville Arms, unloaded the bike and headed for the bar (off course!). I truly like the atmosphere at these old hotels. I always get the idea that there are so many stories to tell; the history of a hotel; the locals at the bar; and so forth. We had a few drinks and a lovely dinner before retiring to bed with a big smile on my face after a great day’s trip behind us.

Sharkie wrote:Lekker !!!!!

Can't wait for the rest !!!!

Ek dag ek spaar jul maar hierdie rondte! Het alles vooraf gedoen en post nou net

DAY 4: HIMEVILLE TO RAMSGATE
Distance: Approximately 305km (with only 3km being gravel road!)


We headed out of Himeville bright and early, after breakfast, towards Underberg from where we got onto the R617 towards Kokstad. As we arrived in Kokstad we saw signboards showing the direction to Adam Kok’s monument so we decided to check it out. This is where we did our 3km of gravel road! Just as well, as we were anyways not planning to take any gravel roads for the day. When we got to the entrance, the board indicated that motorcycles (among others) are not allowed. In hind side we should probably not have let that put us down. I have a huge problem with most of the resorts and conservation areas not allowing motorbikes as a rule. I feel very offended when I see this. It is not is if I ride a loud bike and that I’ll disturb the peace or anything, nor will I be convinced that my bike will do more damage to their roads than, for instance, a 4x4. Anyways, it is in my opinion an arbitrary discriminating rule of which I have never heard a good explanation for. Those bloody Hell’s Angels of way back when are probably to thank for this. No offence to any of you Hell’s Angels out there!


My navigator memorising the route. Who needs a GPS!?


Himeville Arms


Adam Kok Monument entrance. No motorbikes…Bastards!

The area from Himeville to Kokstad is very beautiful. So natural and peaceful. I think after the previous afternoon’s exiting ride to Himeville, even more so. It was a very relaxing ride to Kokstad. So after the search for the monument we stopped at a coffee shop for a break.

From Kokstad we headed towards Bizara via Brooks Nek. Bizara reminded me of Maputo for some reason. Also the speed limits reminded me of Mozambique ranging between 60km/h and 80km/h with limited stretches of 100km/h. So as we exited Bizara I got pulled over for speeding. Just what I needed! I already received 2 fines in the post recently; one for R1 200 and one for R1 500! Needless to say I was very desperate not to get another fine. End of story…

A few kilometres after Bizara, as we came closer to the wild coast, it was suddenly nice and warm. It felt as if we were in the middle of summer again. So we stopped to take off our rain suits and tops. It was amazing to see the locals race around the bends within these hilly surroundings. I’m sure there are quite a few accidents in that area. Corlia tried to make friends with two horses beside the road, but that didn’t really work out.


The locals go round these bends like maniacs!


Corlia, after trying to make friends.

We then headed onto Port Edward. You cross this lovely bridge as you enter Port Edward from the south. We stopped at Mother’s Pub (what a name!) in Port Edward and then rode past Splash Rock. We then headed for Pistols Saloon in Ramsgate. The idea was to have a late lunch there and then head for Shelly Beach or thereabouts to look for a place to stay. We overshot and had to turn back to Pistols. For anyone who’s never been to Pistols Saloon, it is definitely one to add on your “places to go” list. It is probably the closest you’ll get to the Wild West without leaving this country. It’s a western bar with loads of character, with farms animals parading through the bar every now and then. We enjoyed it so much that we decided to enquire about a place to stay nearby. There is a guesthouse just across the road so we stayed there – Bellevoe Guesthouse, which is a really nice guesthouse and really within budget. We freshened up at the guesthouse and enjoyed the rest of the night at Pistols.


Mothers Pub


Splash Rock


Corlia and Huckleberry at Pistols


We forgot to take a picture at pistols so we took one the following morning.

DAY 5: RAMSGATE TO AMANZIMTOTI
Distance: Approximately 150km (no gravel)


We were on our way to Amanzimtoti looking for a place to have breakfast, when we turned into Sunwich Port. We stopped at a bar close to the beach. The kitchen wasn’t open yet so we had snacks (peanuts) and something to drink (desperately needed after a very “lekker kuier” at Pistols the previous night) before we headed further in search of a breakfast venue. When we got to Hibberdene, I recalled a place I’d stayed at before which was quite nice. So we had breakfast at the Carousel Resort. A very nice place, with lots of bang for your buck. We were not in a hurry seeing that we didn’t have much ground to cover. We stopped at Bazley Beach for our first walk on the beach. This is a very quiet, beautiful beach which I will definitely visit again.


Bazley Beach


Bazley Beach

We then stopped at the Fishing Club at Park Rynie, right on the beach. As you head up the stairs you are confronted by a sign indicating that non-members have to be signed in by members, not making you feel very welcome. So I sent Corlia in first to flutter her eyes and ask if we would be allowed to have a drink. In the end they were very welcoming and we sat around the bar listening the exciting stories of a local fisherman. It turns out you can make quite a lot of money if you know what you’re doing. We then headed for Umkomaas for lunch at the Sea Fever Lodge, after which we headed for Amanzimtoti. We spent four days in Toti before we headed home. The plan initially was to head back over two days, but in the end (after a lot of persuasion from Corlia’s family) we decided to stay a day extra and head back in one day.


Sunrise in Amanzimtoti

DAY 9: AMANZIMTOTI TO PRETORIA
Distance: Approximately 720km (no gravel)


We wanted to leave at 6h00 because we had a lot of ground to cover but struggling to find the right road, we were only on the right road at 6h40. We headed south towards Doonside first and from there via Umbumbulu and Ashburton towards Pietermaritzburg. We got lost a bit in Pietermaritzburg so we took the N3 to Howick, where we got onto the R103 towards Lions River. By the time we got to Howick you could feel the winter chill in the air. We saw and heard quite a few Harley’s on the highway while we were stretching our legs. Apparently there was a Harley Rally in Margate over the weekend. We, however, decided to stick to the back roads. Somewhere just past Lions River is a monument where Nelson Mandela was caught and arrested back in the day. We also passed the school were Spud (for those who read the book) went to near Nottingham Road. I think the schools name is Michael House. We then passed through Rosette, a beautiful little town onto Mooirivier and Estcourt where we had breakfast.


Feeling the winter chill in Howick.

After breakfast we headed further north towards Winterton and Bergville, stopped at the Sterkfontein Dam again and onto Harrismith. Here we also found some guys on their way to Gauteng from the Puke (I think that’s wat they said) Rally somewhere by the coast. What a name for a rally (if I have it right)! From Harrismith we took the N3 towards Warden (about 50km) and got off again at Warden, onto the R103. The Highway was very busy as all the holidaymakers made their way back home; glad we stuck to the back roads. From Warden we headed to Vrede and then Standerton, from where we took the R50 all the way to Pretoria.


Vrede

As always we didn’t take as many pictures as we should’ve on the way back, but we really didn’t rush home. The trip back home really didn’t feel as depressing as always and I didn’t feel as rushed as I normally do. This again was a trip to remember through this beautiful country of ours.

LESSONS LEARNED:

1. Dishwashing gloves worn underneath your bike gloves, together with the heated grips off course, work great to keep the cold out. See, I have GS gloves and they are not very warm as they are not wind proof. I had a look at the silk under gloves, but they cost R180 and I doubt that they’d keep the cold out better than the dishwashing gloves. Buy them for a tenth of the price of silk gloves, cut them off at the wrist (or up to where your bike gloves go), use them for one ore two trips and toss them before they get smelly.

2. A summer jacket with your rain suit over that (and a top underneath) works fine for temperatures down to 8°C. My winter jacket is very bulky and if it gets hot, like it normally gets down at the south coast, removing its inner doesn’t really help. It also doesn’t have proper air vents. So if you’re taking a long trip and you know you’re gonna cross a mix of climates, consider the above. If it gets a bit warmer you can remove your rain suite (mine fits in the back of my summer jacket) and if it gets hot, take off your top.

3. Shorter day trips mean more stops and more time to do fun stuff along the way. I always say your holiday doesn’t start when you arrive at your destination. It starts the minute you leave home. And if you keep your day trips short you have much more time at hand for all sorts of activities and sightseeing along the route.

Hope this was worth while reading…..‘till next time!

Great Sias, I'm sure you and Corlia had a lot of fun!!!!!

Very nice - just love that Pistols Saloon











PS - sorry for the hi-jack!!

Corlia kom van Reitz af....nou ja, toe!! Reitzers hier in Pretoria word al meer.....
Se my as julle weer gaan, dan ry ek saam om vir ma (95) wat nog daar in die ouetehuis is te kuier. Maar ek ry NIE grondpad nie!!

Dishwashing gloves......: Elkeen het sy smaak maar vir my werk Dischem se "Disposable Latex Examination Gloves" tussen "Inners" en die gewone bike handskoen beter daar in die Vrystaat se koue.

Great stuff.

Nice read well documented with photos. Nothing beats (well....almost nothing) hitting the road on two wheels with loved ones

thanks for sharing

Thanks for your trip report.
Looks like you guys had a wonderful time.
What an experience !

Thanks
DP

Sias & Corlia, well... I had a stroll down memory lane as I read through this RR! You should have taken a left just after Sterkfontein dam - one of Sharkie's "it will get better. I promise" gravel mountain passes!!!

I'm glad that it went without incident and thank for the great photos!

I'm personally starting to get withdrawal symptoms to go somewhere far and foreign...

Rejuvenated DaveS wrote:PS - sorry for the hi-jack!!

No hi-jack imo! Glad you know what I'm talking about! You gotta love that place!

Marnus wrote:You should have taken a left just after Sterkfontein dam - one of Sharkie's "it will get better. I promise" gravel mountain passes!!!

I've heard the stories and seen the pictures so I'm a bit sceptic to take one of Sharkie's recommended Drakensberg routes.........ALONE! I'm sure i'd need some assistance along the way....

Great report Sias!
Thanks!

You BAD! You made me very jealous now.

Thanx for sharing it with us.

Great report. So waneer le jy vir ons so 'n trippie aan??

Ons sal spesiaal vir Marnus en Sharkie (Foeitog so naby maar tog so ver - Viva Bulle ) die Bezuidenhoudtspas inwerk.

Ek is net versigtig vir Mother's bar - Is dit Mammie s'n of is dit die plek waar die meisies daai Egiptiese virus kry? (Meisies verander in mu(a)mmies...)
Ek het al die foto's fyn bekyk en kon nog geen simptome van die virus by Corlia bespeur nie....

Nice julle!

Seems you (S & C) had an excellent ride - very nice pics and daily descriptions - the pic with corlia and her pants around the knees is very interesting. The description as well. Sy moet net seker maak sy weet wat sy wanneer wil doen.

Sy moet net seker maak sy weet wat sy wanneer wil doen